Thursday, May 3, 2012

Final Carnival

Text: Brazil and La Plata: the Personal Record of a Cruise by Charles Samuel Stewart

The city of Rio, from Brazil and La Plata.
“The first impression made on an intelligent stranger on landing at Rio would, probably, arise from the numbers, evident difference in condition, the variety of employments, dress, and undress, almost to nakedness, of the negro and slave population.  Such figures, such groupings, such costumes, as are exhibited by these on every side, would be difficult to picture or describe.” Pg 72

The city of Rio de Janeiro teems with populations of all kinds, as everyone comes together to celebrate the famous Carnival.  Since the arrival of Christianity here in Brazil, the beginning of Lent has been celebrated by the huge blowout of costumes, music, parades, and festivities.  We were so lucky to spend our final destination in Rio just in time for the world famous Carnival.  The morning began before the sun rose, with the distant beat of steel drums and rhythm instruments woke us, and we rushed to the main boulevards for the parades. Women in various stages of undress flaunt their bodies in rhythmic dances through the streets, leaving little regard for customary modesty.  Samba troupes parade through in spectacular shows of talent.  On the side roads, there are many smaller parades in which the general public is invited to dance and participate.  The elaborate costumes of the professional dancers include feathers, beads, sparkles, headdresses, and skirts of epic proportions.  Many of the samba schools prepare for the event year round. The party occupies the entire city for a whole week, and goes late into the night before starting up again before sunrise.  We were able to wander and watch for hours, fighting through the cheering crowds to see the most celebrated dance troupes as well as experiencing some of the smaller parades and parties away from the main one. 
The magic of Carnival.

There is a grandiose amount of consumption throughout Carnival, as locals and tourists alike see it as a time to entirely cut loose before the limited practices of Lent, when meat and other indulgences are not allowed.  We ate roasted lamb, spicy rice, freshly caught fish, and the traditional meat dish of feijoada. Pastries called bolos are stuffed with meat, fruit, custard, and other fillings depending on personal preference, and bolos carts line the streets.  We gave no regard to mealtimes or hunger, and simply tasted anything desirable throughout the celebration of carnival.  The dancing and cheering is so exhausting, anyway, that the excessive amounts of food are almost necessary and serve as a welcome break from the festival. 

Exploring the city of Rio during Carnival is not exactly easy, since the millions of residents are all crowded into the main streets and the corner pockets of the city are all but deserted.  Exploring as much as we could in our spare time away from Carnival, we saw a colorful and diverse city, built into the hillsides to accommodate its rapidly growing population.  The informal sector of both employment and housing is huge here, which creates problems for the government but gives the city its living feel, as under ever bridge or around any corner is a thriving little slum village, its own world away from the city and the Carnival itself.

Leaving Rio, we will return to America by plane and complete our tour of the world.  We began in the frigid glaciers of Alaska and explored every climate, language, religion, culture, and history imaginable.  I will never again learn so much as I have in the past year, and will never forget the memories made on this trip.  My experiences will be my guide for the rest of my life, opening my eyes to the unimaginable realm of possibilities before me in this amazing world.

Playtime Down Under

Following the Equator, A Journey Around the World by Mark Twain, Vol. 1, 1903.

“Presently, a quarter of a mile away you would see a blinding splash or explosion of light on the water—a flash so sudden and so astonishingly brilliant that it would make you catch your breath; then that blotch of light would instantly extend itself and take the corkscrew shape and imposing length of the fabled sea-serpent…it was porpoises, porpoises aglow with phosphorescent light. “ Pg 107
Inscription in Mark Twain's Following the Equator.
Sydney Harbor: “It was shaped somewhat like an oak-leaf—a roomy sheet of lovely blue water, with narrow off-shoots of water running up into the country on both sides between long fingers of land, high wooden ridges with sides sloped like graves.” Pg 112
“He said that the kangaroo had pockets, and carried its young in them when it couldn’t get apples.  And he said that the emu was as big as an ostrich, and looked like one, and had an amorphous appetite and would eat bricks.  Also, that the dingo was not a dingo at all, but just a wild dog…” page 101

Porpoises love to play in the wake of
boats as they come into the harbor.
We went south from Indonesia to the old English colony of Australia, known for pristine beaches, exotic wildlife, and a recreational mentality that pervades the entire country.  It is a perfect place to relax and adventure through the various ecosystems they have to offer. I am most drawn to the opportunities afforded by the ocean, which in addition to swimming include snorkeling and fish watching, fishing, diving, sailing, and surfing.  The crystal blue ocean floor is covered with miles of teeming coral reefs, tiny worlds full of fish, crustaceans, plants, and more.  Larger ocean mammals, such as dolphins, whales, sharks, and big fish also lurk under the water’s surface, coming up to feed or play as needed.  On our ride in, we were accompanied by dolphins, which love to swim in the wake of the big ships that come into the Sydney Harbor.  These dolphins followed us in, diving and twisting at the bow of the boat, never missing a beat or falling behind, despite our speeds.  It was a fantastic way to be introduced to the playful culture here in Australia, as the entire crew stopped arrival preparations to enjoy the presence of the smart, cunning water creatures.

From the white sand beaches of Sydney, a visitor is within arm’s reach of any recreational activity imaginable.  Aboriginal natives walk the shores, touting tours, surf lessons, dive equipment, and more, for extremely low prices.  We rented long wooden surfboards, and floated amongst the small waves close to shore attempting to balance and ride a wave into the shore, as many of the young Australians do with grace and ease.  While surfing was not my special talent, I spent many hours kicking above the fragile and beautiful coral reefs with a mask and snorkel rented for a few cents on the beach.  The variety of colors and creatures right below my eyes was incredible. 

The unique wildlife of the Australian continent is not confined to the ocean, of course.  Just a few hours past Sydney is the “Outback,” a remote landscape that covers much of interior Australia.  Kangaroos, dingoes, koalas, emus, and other animals run freely here, which causes some danger to the traveler.  Even seemingly sweet kangaroos will get angry and defensive, and use their powerful hopping legs to deliver a mighty blow to any person or animal who disturbs their habitat.  We were careful to keep a safe distance when observing these unique creatures in the wild.

Australia is a unique, confined ecosystem where recreation rules and people, plants, and animals coexist in a mutually beneficial balance that exists nowhere else in the world.

Wednesday, May 2, 2012

Recuperation in Java, Indonesia

Text: Life in Java, with sketches of the Javanese by William Barrington d'Almeida, 1864.
The Javanese, Life in Java
As the road was broader now and more even, we proceeded at a much more rapid rate, passing through jungles of lofty umbrageous forest trees, their sides and branches covered with lovely parasites and creepers, under which, in some parts, were coffee plantations; their white flowers something like those of the Jessamine at a distance, impregnating the air with delicious perfume.” Page 138-139 

As we near the Pacific Ocean once again, we’ve nearly come full circle on our own exploration of this world.  The experiences have been one in a lifetime, and we’ve done and seen things that we never even imagined could exist.  After all these months of planes, trains, and automobiles, not to mention horse, ship, or foot, we are feeling quite exhausted as we make our way through the last legs of our trip.  We journeyed over to the island nation of Indonesia, stayed in the dirty, crowded city of Jakarta for a few days before escaping to the relative quiet of the Java Island.  What better way to rejuvenate, we thought, then a stay on the famous coffee plantations of the island?
Javanese coffee beans after harvest and treatment.

Java coffee is world famous for pioneering the world coffee industry and for its strong, sweet distinctive flavor.  Some of the larger plantations, which have been in operation since the days of Dutch colonialization, offer tours and stays for visitors such as ourselves, who want to see where their treasured coffee comes from.  The plantations are huge, and employ hundreds of native Indonesians for the backbreaking labor they require.  Harvest of the coffee beans, called berries, is done in the late summer months and then begins the months-long process of drying, husking, storing, and finally packaging.  The coffee is shipped to international ports all over the world, and is Indonesia’s chief export. The plantation had several buildings of rudimentary machinery, such as a threshing and husking machine and storage silos, but much of the work is still done by hand to maintain the pristine reputation of this variety.

Rainforest occupants include the
Sumatran Orangutan
In addition to coffee exportation, Indonesia is also home to a wonderful rainforest filled with all kinds of exotic flora and fauna.  Growth of the coffee industry, as well as logging and mining, is starting to threaten some of the areas of rainforest, so our tour of Bali’s wildlife preserve was very cautious, so as not to disturb the revegetation there. In well-equipped forest buggies, we caravanned through an old mining trail, stopping to observe orangutans swinging in the canopy, poisonous frogs darting up trees, screaming monkeys, snakes longer and thicker than a grown man’s arm, and so much more.  Wild boars especially cross the path frequently, paying little attention to the human presence. The many-layered rainforest never sleeps, as something is always moving, shrieking, growing, or eating.  The diverse plant life comes alive in itself, with vivid colors and scents that perfume the forest.

The tropical journey was a spectacular one, and the colors, smells, and sounds of the jungle will stay with us for years when we think of the price of habitat destruction there for the simple luxuries offered at home.

Monday, April 30, 2012

Give The Sun No Chance

"As we draw nearer to the sacred Ganges, the crowd of pilgrims that is wending its way thither, grows larger, more cosmopolitan, and more interesting.  Here are Hindus from every part of India and of every conceivable caste."--Our Journey Around the World, page 338

We trundled across the Middle East in a series of train rides and caravans, through the relentless heat of the deserts and cities that scatter the landscape.  We saw elephants and camels and monkeys, all tamed in quite unnatural ways, doing the work of horses or people in the villages.  Life here revolves around the force of the sun, and escaping the heat is always a consideration for the daily lives of the people.  People work fewer and more obscure hours, taking a nap in the heat of the day or using their precious water supply to cool off the children or animals.

Beggars and children in the streets of Calcutta, Our Journey Around the World
Poverty and disease run rampant in India, as the cold grasp of the caste system is still inescapable.  In Calcutta, the streets are lined with the saddest sights: beggars of al ages unable to move from the disease and starvation that encompasses them.  Good Samaritans try to help, and overcrowded orphanages and impromptu soup kitchens dot the edges of the “untouchable” neighborhoods.  Unfortunately, most Indians believe misfortune will fall upon them if they attempt to help the lower classes, so the orphanages are run by Westerners, mostly Catholic nuns or other charitable folk who seek to spread the kindness of their god to this world.

We visited one such orphanage, run by sisters from Ireland, and were invited to spend the day overseeing and assisting with their daily operations.  Dozens of children live in the small compound, which is really just an old house modified with beds, classrooms, and play spaces.  Many of the children are biological brothers and sisters who were brought here by a distant relative or older sibling when their parents died, or didn’t return from a day of work on the streets.  Their stories are sad, but the children are all laughs, and loved meeting new people such as ourselves.  We played games in the dirt with them outside the house, and ate their meager portions of rice and water for lunch, squatting in a circle on the dirt floor of the kitchen.  Living in filth or squalor is all relative, and for these kids the orphanage is a safe, healthy place far superior to anything they have ever known.  The nuns are kind and work hard to provide basic skills to the children to hopefully improve their standing in the world by the time they are old enough to leave.  Children older than about eight years old must work, but at least here they are able to split their time between learning in the classroom and begging or doing odd jobs in the streets.  It’s a dangerous life, but they do the best they can with what they have.  They certainly understand the value of a hot meal or place to sleep far better than any western child I have ever known. 

Bathers of all kinds flock to the sacred Ganges River.
In addition to the orphanage, which opened our eyes more than any other spectacular landscape or adventure on this entire journey we also observed the activity of the sacred Ganges river.  Men, women, and children from all classes flock to the river for its sacred healing powers.  It is brown, muddy, and certainly disease ridden, but the people feel no qualms stripping out of their saris and robes and wading right in.  I would be nervous in that still, muddled water that a snake or other creature would come with malicious intents, but apparently the power of prayer works well here.  We touched our hands and feet to the water, simply for the experience, but it was far too crowded for us to go any further, not that we had a desire to.

India is a magical land, filled with much sadness and disease but also rich with stories and human kindness.  The hot sun beats down relentlessly as we travel through, reminding us of the importance of a safe refuge and making us thankful for everything we have.

Wednesday, April 25, 2012

Time Fears the Pyramids

Text: Our Journey Around the World, Francis and Harriet Clark, 1895
Everything fears time, but time fears the pyramids” –ancient Arab proverb

“Unmistakably the pyramids of picture-book and fancy, of boyhood’s dream and manhood’s anticipation.” Pg 418

The Great Pyramids are the most distinct landmark of the ancient Egyptian times.  They mark a landscape that is filled with buried history, that was undiscovered for hundreds of years, and contains so much more than the eye can see.  We visited the great pyramids as part of our foray into the ancient Egyptian world.  We approached by train, as the tourist industry has capitalized on this rarity quite well.  The pyramids first appear on the horizon in stark geometric contrast to the rolling sandiness that surrounds us.  Nothing else surrounds them, as all evidence of the life is buried below the surface, except for a few modern outcroppings of commercialism and celebrations. The poverty of modern Cairo still pervades even this far out in the country, as seen by beggars on the train and trash in the roads.  Up close even the pyramids themselves have evidence of time and weathering on their rough edges. 

The pyramids seem so sharp as we approached them, and we were wary about the day’s coming adventure, as the Arab guide had told us that we could climb to the summit.  Once we saw the scarred and jagged edges, though, we realized climbing would not be as dangerous as we thought.  If many more tourists start to take advantage of the road to the pyramids, it will be impossible to allow climbing on the monuments, so we must take advantage of it while we are here.  With two Arab guides accustomed to the tricky climb, we edged our way back and forth across the face of the Great Pyramid, the rough sandstone flaking off in our hands and clothes as we tried to keep a sturdy grip. As we sat atop the small peak of the pyramid, my mind wandered far back to the age of burial in these larger-than-life tombs.  What treasures were still beneath the surface?  Who had spent so many hours toiling over each individual stone, dedicating their entire life to the rich pharaoh who would only enjoy this place after his death?  The Egyptian society took such a different approach to death and the afterlife than anything we are used to, so I suppose they all had different opinions on the purpose of such grand monsters.  The defaced Sphinx looks over the pyramids like a relaxed mother figure, seated comfortably for thousands of years.  The superstition and spiritual presence of the Egyptians looms all around.
We were also able to explore the carefully preserved remains of those treasures that were found deep in the tombs of the various pyramids and other tombs.  Kept behind protected glass, the gold treasures do not hold the same resonance they would if found clustered under the ground in a pharaoh’s tomb.  But there are coins, and jewelry, and vessels of every kind.  They were buried with food, drinks, clothing, and more, all for the everlasting journey into the afterlife.  Our museum exploration proved very rewarding after the up close and personal experience with the pyramids earlier in the day. 

Exhausted by heat and history, we ended the day in a dark, loud Egyptian cafĂ© in Cairo.  We drank lukewarm coffee and ate spicy vegetables and flaky lamb and enjoyed the local company until the sky began to lighten again over those majestic pyramids.

Tuesday, April 24, 2012

The Exotic Canary Islands and Morocco

Texts: Letters from the Canary Islands, by Daniel Jay Browne, Lyceum Press, Boston, 1834

Our Journey Around the World, Frances E. Clark and Harriet Clark, 1895.

"The inhabitants [of the Canary Islands], at least one half of the year, experience the intense and almost perpendicular rays of the sun; and when the periodical rains neglect to fall…Then that same orb which cheers and enlightens more temperate regions of the earth, here comes the most deadly bane…Kind nature has devised suitable reparation by fanning the earth with refreshing breezes, and by setting apart an appropriate season for rain.”

Shadows of the Saharan Desert, Morocco
We now depart Europe and continue on to some of the more exotic locations of this Earth.  From the south of Italy, we boarded a small cruise ship that took us through the temperate azure of the Mediterranean, through shoreline fishing villages, olive groves, stunning beaches, and more.  We stopped at the southernmost Port of Spain and departed the continent for an African journey beginning in Morocco.  Morocco is a very Arab-influenced part of Africa, and this trip does not allow for Sub-Saharan exploration, so there is still plenty to see on this continent.  But Morocco is home to the great sweeps of desert sand, broiling camel rides, and picturesque oases that inspire a festive, heavenly time.

We also tripped over on a short boat to the world famous Canary Islands.   Technically owned by Spain, this tropical slice of paradise seems like a world away from any sort of modern life.  Tribal culture is still very prominent, and much of the land seems untouched by any hand or foot, much like our beginning journey in Alaska and the western United States.  The small islands are home o hundreds of active volcanoes, and tales from the native villages kept us on our feet as we traversed the edges of the jungles, looking out for exotic wildlife and vegetation. 

A profound silence reigns with regard to their origin, in which the world must probably forever remain in darkness.” –Letters from the Canary Islands, on the native inhabitants.

The native tribes here, which have been visited by Europeans and Westerners, especially Spanish explorers, have attempted to maintain the traditional lifestyle of hunting, fishing, gathering, and living beautiful days at the water’s edge in their grass villages.  The western influences are slight but unignorable—a Spanish priest resides in the largest village, and oversees the Catholic Church there, but some tribes still practice indigenous religious practices.  We observed a dancing ritual to welcome the rainy season.  The rains and sun dictates the very day-to-day life of these inhabitants, so a rainy season that remains too dry or a series of storms can change the entire course of their livelihood for a year or more.  In order to please their several mythological gods of rain and weather forces, they practice a dance and celebration.  While the modern influences have rendered this celebration more for show than for true results, the energy and experience were nonetheless unforgettable. They were very welcoming to our small party but stressed the importance and seriousness of the event.  We were included in the dancing, but the chanting and spiritual portions were somewhat isolated from our prying Western eyes. 

Peak Teneriffe, Canary Islands
We hiked around the base of the tallest peak of the islands, Peak Teneriffe, which has been an active volcano not too long ago in the past.  Ever rumble of a mule’s hooves or snapping twig of an iguana in the brush made me jump for fear of another catastrophic eruption, but o course this is such a rare occurrence.  Walking on crusted dried black lava, which has a wavy, frozen, appearance but is sharp, vicious, and easily broken, was something unsettling as well.  The whole proximity of the eruption and destruction of a volcano was all around us.  The tropical excursion was enlightening, relaxing, and rejuvenating.  The combination of old and new in the cultures here is a great lesson in cooperation and compromise. 

Antiquity to Modernity

Text: The American in Europe
Influences of the Ancients

“Hail to thee, Italy! Land of sun and beauty—land of liberty and despotism—of slavery and freedom—of vices and crime—home of the arts!”
“Life in Florence is always a luxury, when it is not actual wretchedness. Wander about the town, and here the sculpture gallery, the painter’s studio, the student’s chamber, are open for you.  To all of these, in turns, a stranger soon finds his way."

 Travel through Italy is a celebration of art and culture just as our visit to Paris.  From Milan to Rome, the ancient cathedrals and ruins, artist’s galleries and museums, the fertile countryside rich with history as well as vegetation celebrate the pervading antiquity. From the first sophisticated civilization, that Grand Roman Empire, Italy has been the forefront of cultural movements. 

Interior of Florence Duomo, engraving from The American in Paris
In an effort to explore the renaissance days, we stopped off in Florence for the galleries and museums of artists such as Botticelli, Michelangelo, Machiavelli, Galileo, and other famous figures.  The city bleeds inspiration, much like the banks of Paris, but the countryside life slows down the pace here in Florence, allowing for a more relaxed exploration.  The Uffizi Gallery is consistently filled with the works of famous renaissance men.  My eyes could not even fathom the sheer volume and magic of the paintings and sculptures here.  Michelangelo’s marble work is perhaps the most famous, as the statue of David was in popular demand.  Religious tradition is heavy in Italy, as it is in much of Europe, especially in the historic and cultural centers.  The Duomo cathedral in Florence, hundreds of years old, is easily the most spectacular building in the city.  Striped and colored marble rise toweringly into the sky, and the shafted ceilings give way to the largest rotunda of all.  The most impressive part about viewing the Duomo or any of the works of art in this city is imagining the struggles of those building them, who had no modern technology or machinery to assist them.  Each piece of art is a true labor of love. 

The true feel of a city is best achieved when you can see the city as a whole.  We gained special access to climb the Campanile—the bell tower just next to the Duomo in the main piazza.  Climbing the hundreds of narrow stairs to the top of the tower felt like climbing back into history, and when we finally ducked our heads around the huge iron bells and out the little square windows, it was like seeing the city for the first time.  Each little narrow cobblestone street, snaking crookedly through shops, neighborhoods, and groups of people reminded me of the effort of ancient construction.  The lives of each simple individual seen all at once helped mold the city into a living, breathing object right there in the dizzying bell tower.

We could explore the crooked corners of Florence, or any other Tuscan town, for days upon days.  Of course, our train to Rome awaited us and we departed, further into the history of ancient Rome, but back into the bustling modern world of the city. 
Modernity is questionable now, what with all these hundreds of century of history with so many glorious contributions.  Where would we be without the map of the ancients? 

Wednesday, April 18, 2012

Artists in Paris

An American in Europe, Henry Clay Crockett, London Printing and Publishing Company, 1850

"We travel, or rather dreamily wander round and round."--The American in Europe
"Montmartre, a hundred years ago, was much more distant from Paris than it is now  It was the heart of a rich and beautiful country, but the encroachments of the great growing monster--the city."

We looked around at the Universite de Paris, where many Americans are known to study during their time abroad.  We are not taking time to study on this journey, instead learning as we go through the world’s classroom.  But if I were to take time somewhere around the world, I think it would be here.  There are artists and writers and chemists and philosophers: so many famous pioneers of the world of learning.  The universite has a chemistry class in which Marie Curie is a guest lecturer.  The philosophy department celebrates the groundbreaking work of Descartes.  But for me, the true draw is the writers, both French and foreign, who call Paris their home.

Sitting on the left banks of the Seine, the presence of the Lost Generation of writers is everywhere.  Hemingway and Fitzgerald live here now, producing some of their best work while away from their American home. Right here in Montmartre, the Left Bank’s artistic center, artists and intellectuals flock together and celebrate creation. The inspiration is everywhere, from the old houses and apartments of Picasso, Dali, Rousseau, Matisse, and more.  The cafes are filled with struggling writers drowning in social inspiration.  We lunched in one of the cafes where Hemingway is known to be spotted, and although there were many dark, brooding men alone at tables with multiple glasses of whiskey, we did not catch a glimpse of him.  We felt at home, surrounded by all these Americans in Paris, but it also felt quite unfair, that we were here taking over and transforming the beautiful French culture.

Intellectually stimulated for more than our fair share, we spent the afternoon and into the evening shopping Paris’s smaller flower and bird markets. They are tucked away from the main Rues, and buy and sell everything imaginable: fresh flowers, plants, pets, livestock, meat, fruit, cheeses, warm bread, wine, and every other small luxury that makes Paris so enjoyable. The Parisian matrons were yelling in French, haggling on dinner supplies for their family while the boys played with sticks in the dirt and the girls followed closely behind their mothers, learning the ways of the market.  We were surely out of place, as not a single person spoke English, though many stall keepers tried to attract us with short bursts of English phrases: “Pretty things! I sell you!” they called uncomfortably.  We purchased more bread and cheese than we could eat for a week, some precious trinkets and fabric to bring home, and a bouquet of fresh flowers for the matron at our boarding house in the 7th Arrondisement.
Jardin Mabile, Paris, where we explored after hours in the City of Lights.

 The hustle and bustle of the city life was surely still present here, but tucked away from the city we were able to enjoy ourselves more, and I really pictured myself coming back and making a life here among the artists and bohemians.

Wednesday, April 11, 2012

The Emerald Isle

Text: “The Boy Travellers in: Great Britain and Ireland” by Thomas Knox, Harper and Brothers, 1891.

On American Travelers, page 2: “They are in a hurry to get to London, and determine that they will see Ireland on their way home…but they longer so long on the continent and in England that they have no time to stop on the way home; and that’s the way Ireland is neglected by the Americans.”
"Why is Ireland the richest country in the world? Because its capital is Dublin every day." :)

 We sailed from New York directly to the port of Queenstown, in the Cove of Cork, in Ireland.  The journey was less than luxurious, and marked by heavy rainstorms, but as The Boy Travellers pointed out, “the frequent and copious rains gave the hills of Ireland the beautiful green that greeted [our] eyes.” (Pg 4) We were more eager to reach the Emerald Isle and continue our sightseeing than to waste time being bothered by the rain, so we spent the steamship journey talking to passengers about their own voyages and gaining a wealth of knowledge and invitations to dinner by wealthy English businessmen.  We promised to call on a few gentlemen when we reached London, but wished to explore those green hills and cliffs of Ireland first.

Blarney Castle, site of the famous Blarney Stone near Cork, Ireland
 After landing in Queenstown, the typical route to Dublin crosses right through the city of Cork and the village of Blarney, which is a huge tourist destination thanks to the poetry of Father Prout, who wrote: “There’s a stone there that whoe’er kisses, sure he ne’er misses/To become iloquint.”  Nowadays, tourists from miles around come to kiss the Blarney stone in hopes that they will win the gift of words.  We were no exception to the superstition, and leaned in to the fragment of the Blarney stone—“not the real one, which is in the wall of the building many feet from the ground, and can only be reached by the lips of a person who is suspended by his heels from the top of the castle four or five feet above.” (Pg 13) and planted a humorous kiss on the cool granite.  For the truly adventurous, it is possible to climb to the top of the castle and reach the true stone, but it does trigger a fear of heights and is not for everybody. I have yet to notice any impact on my ways of speech, but perhaps the skill takes a few days to acquire. 

Lakes of Killarney, some of the beautiful scenery of Ireland.
From pg 21 of The Boy Travellers.
The Irish countryside, which we traveled thoroughly, is full of ancient and crumbling castles, abbeys, monasteries, and the like.  In addition to the rich human history, it is also a beautiful country of waterfalls, lakes, and the famous mountainous cliffs.  I was in awe at the richness of the shades of greens, blues, and browns that cover this country.  Many of the lakes and falls reminded me of our visit to the Yosemite valley, though the air here has a much more distinctive chill, and the sense of rain is almost constant, as if a light mist continually sprays without any particular accumulation o water.  We spent our time in the Irish countryside in a perpetual state of dampness, but it was worth it for the lush vegetation in which we were surrounded.  It is hard to believe that only a few decades ago this entire landscape was devastated by drought and famine.  The environment seems very healthy for potatoes and other crops. 

Man from Limerick
county, from
The Boy Travellers
The Irish people are very proud of their ancestry and roots.  Even the poorest, smallest children can stand up proudly and recite the occupation of their grandfathers.  Tempers run high between families, and the local pubs are always a raucous celebration or argument of familial pride.  We frequented these pubs in the crowded, dirty, but proud neighborhoods of poor Dublin.  To see the true life of the people is the most important goal of this journey. 

My family hails from Limerick, which we saw on our country drives, and when my name was mentioned at the pub there the patrons burst into roars of acceptance and treated us like family for the rest of our stay. I could have stayed there with my new family for days, but we’ve got a whole world to see.  The green hills, clear lakes, and proud people of Ireland will not be forgotten.

Sunday, April 8, 2012

An Evening at the Theatre

 Lights and Shadows of New York Life; or, the Sight and Sensations of The Great City. By James D. McCabe, National Publishing Company, 1873.

Theater Program: “The New Yorkers” at Broadway Theater, New York Theater Program Corp Publishers, opening Jan. 5, 1931.

From Sight and Sensation of the Great City: “The theatres: There are usually from 50,000 to 100,000 strangers in the city, and the majority of these find the evenings dull without some amusement to enliven them.” Pg 470 
“In no other city are such establishments as elegant and commodious, and nowhere else in America are the companies as proficient in their art, or the play so admirable put on the stage.” Pg 471

With our few days’ overlap in the “Greatest city on earth,” we decided we must explore everything this city is so famous for: the central Park, the statue of Liberty given by the French, the libraries and museums and cultural centers.  New York is such a fashionable, high society place, though poverty, crime, and danger lurk among many dark corners.  According to James McCabe, author of “Sights and Sensations,” “It is not safe for a stranger to undertake to explore these places for himself…no respectable man is a match for the villains and sharpers of New York.” 

In this era of Prohibition, an underground culture of speakeasies, dance halls, and street workers borders the edge of some of the most respectable destinations.  In order to protect ourselves from the dangers laid out by such a big city, we mostly tour during the day, where one can glimpse the underground culture but not be engrossed in it.  We decided, though, that no trip to New York is complete without a trip to the legendary theaters.  Musicals, opera, drama, Shakespeare, vaudeville, and more grace the dozens of stages of New York each night.  Many stage stars have their own following by members of the elite here, who attend the lavish opening night events of each of their new shows.  Film stars beloved across the nation are also beginning to cross back over into stage work, bringing a celebrity quality to the most classic of productions. 

"The New Yorkers" theatre program, January 1931.
We decided to splurge on tickets to a production of “The New Yorkers” at B.S. Moss’s Broadway theatre, in order to have the most classically new York evening.  The play was described as a sociological musical satire and pokes fun at New York stereotypes, including the elite, conmen, thieves and prostitutes. It was a whirlwind romantic tale about a socialite named Alice and her relationship with a bootlegger name Al.  It included such musical numbers as “Say it with Gin,” “”The Great Indoors,” “Take Me Back to Manhattan,” and other tales that made it a pleasure for New Yorkers and tourists alike, as it gave a humorous picture of the lives of the residents of such a city. 

The theater program, which I saved as a memento of the experience, includes articles on up-and-coming New Yorkers, the latest fashion trends, and some warnings about the fall of the economy.  It is clearly directed at the socialites who frequent the theater.  Advertisers flock to the theater program in order to target such an elite audience, but it was enjoyable for us as visitors as well. 

After the show, we visited a dance hall popular with the young people of the city.  It was an adventure in nightlife that we had previously shied away from, due to James McCabe’s warnings, but we learned that with a little common sense there is no reason not to enjoy New York’s many offerings at all hours of the day.  This risk-taking also served us well for the coming adventures in Europe and the rest of the world!  Tomorrow we leave new York and America for good, setting off across the Atlantic for a tour of European Greats, ancient ruins and indigenous cultures of Northern Africa, an East Indies passage through India, and a recreational jaunt around the south Pacific.  The world is literally ours to explore.

Wednesday, March 28, 2012

Cross Country Freedom

U.S. Interstate Highways, October 1st, 1937
National System of Interstate and Defense.

“I am taking it for granted that you want to go camping, that you know the joys of the out-of-doors, of fishing, hiking, motoring, meeting new people, seeing the deserts, mountains, lakes, forests, and the thrill of looking to see what is around the next bend of the road”--From Leisure League Little Book Number 22: Motor Camping by Porter Varney, 1935

In order to make the most of our time America before sailing across the Atlantic in one moth’s time, we have decided to drive cross-country in our own car.  This way, we have the flexibility to decide when and where to go and which attractions to see, and the opportunity to save money by sleeping under the stars along the way.  It is legal to camp on any National Forest land in America, and designated camping spots are cropping up in abundance.  Since I have never done a trip with this much planning and independence, we turned to the Motor Camping guidebook for advice. 

  Since we were already in the Southern United States, we decided to keep the most southerly route, through California, Arizona, New Mexico, Texas, then north through Missouri and Illinois and on east to New York.  The most convenient highway route is Route 66, also known as Main Street America, filled with the iconic American symbols of growth, exploration, and travel.  We like to think of ourselves as reverse Lewis and Clarks, exploring territory previously unchartered to us, to say the least.

            We packed the car using the advice of the guidebook, bringing only what we need for the two-week drive.  They suggested, and I highly agree, that having a comfortable place to sleep is the most important part of a camping excursion:
“Even though you have a sunny disposition it is apt to be a little clouded after spending the night with a stone or root performing chiropractic treatment on your spine, or your duffel soaked by a heavy rain.” (Page 27)
Motor Camping with a tent, as suggested by the Leisure League.
 This ominous message scared us into equipping the backseat of the car into an easy sleeping area:  With just a few minor tweaks, the backseat now folds completely down into the trunk to form a comfortable two-person sleeping bench.  Two sleeping bags and two extra blankets provide adequate warmth for any variety of weather, though our weather will be mostly hot, the desert is known to get chilled at night.  This plan removes the need to carry a canvas tent, which is bulky, heavy, not easily dried in case of a rainstorm, and which we will not need upon reaching New York. The rest of our clothing, food, and gear fits easily under the seats, as we set off on this journey with the bare necessities in order to make traveling from point A to Point B as simple as possible. 

We found tackling the Great Southwest in this manner to be very convenient.  We brought food along as we wished, or stopped in towns during mealtimes.  We visited the Grand Canyon at sunset, in awe at the striking red, purple, and orange of the sky sinking into the red dirt of the canyon.  Arizona and New Mexico are rich with the culture of Native Americans, which we saw throughout our drive.  The people are simple and friendly, and eager to share their culture.  We watched Indian women make Chimayo blankets, visited an old Mexican village and trading post, and saw the Indian pueblos, all while speeding along across the country.  We were primarily interested in reaching the east coast, so drove an average of eight hours a day through the dry and dusty landscape, awaking early before sunrise and often pulling up to a campsite after dark, as we took many breaks to visit the land.

As we pulled north out of Texas, the scene began to look more familiar, and we stopped to fish in the Midwest river valleys and made great time over the expansive plains.  Farmhands often offered us a fresh lunch on the farms we passed, and we eventually arrived in New York in excellent spirits, eager for a few days rest before the international adventure began. Driving the car allowed us to create our own adventure and visit the things we found most interesting, but the best part was the freedom to pull over on the side of the road to sleep under the stars wherever we wished.

Thursday, March 8, 2012

Exploring the Yosemite Valley

Stop #2 on my tour.

Texts: The Yosemite Guide-book by J.D. Whitney, State Geologist to California, 1870.

From The Yosemite Guidebook:
"The Yosemite Valley is a unique and wonderful locality; it is an exceptional creation, and as such has been exceptionally provided for jointly by the Nation and the state--it has been made a national public park...that of holding the Yosemite Valley as a place of public use, resort, and recreation, inalienable for all time!"

"What gives its peculiar character to the Coast Range scenery is, the delicate and beautiful carving of their masses by the aqueous erosion of the soft material of which they are composed...the general absence of forest and shrubby vegetation.  The bareness of the slopes gives full play to the effects of light and shade caused by the varying and intricate contour of the surface."

Horeseback riding to Bridalveil Falls

"Bridalveil falls is formed by a creek of the same name, is precipitated over the cliff into the Yosemite [river] in one leap of 630 feet perpendicular. The effect is finest when the supply of water is not too heavy, since then the swaying from side to side, and the waving under the varying pressure of the wind as it strikes the long column of water, is more marked." --The Yosemite Guidebook

We left the visitor's center on horseback at an early hour, and watched the sunrise as we rode in a group of ten down the wagon trail to the base of Bridalveil falls. The trail is called Mariposa, Spanish for butterfly, and hosts a variety of wildlife of various kinds.  We saw small rodents, insects, calm deer in the morning light who ran off at the sound of our horse's hooves.  I imagine we may have seen more had we been travelling by foot--the guide mentioned black bear, coyotes and mountain lions, but I for one am glad we had the protection of the horses and didn't glimpse these creatures out in the wild alone.  I'm thrilled they are alive and well in the park though.

More stunning than the animal life, though, is the natural landscape for which the park is famous.  The trail descends steeply into the heart of the yosemite valley and the horses stepped sure-footedly, even if we were  a little unsteady on their backs.  I had to trust the horse and guide to watch the trail because my attention was immediately drawn up, up, up to those majestic cliff faces.  The enormity of it all, shooting straight up from the ground on both sides of us, was enough to shrink me down to an ant on the trail.  We saw El Capitan, directly facing Bridalveil Falls, the famous Half Dome, Sentinel Rock, and other hugely impressive rock formations.  each one us huge and spectacular in its own way. We hope to return again to climb to the top of El Capitan, providing us with an entirely new perspective.
Woodcut drawing of El Capitan and Bridalveil Falls,
as seen from afar as we approached on horseback.
Yosemite Guidebook.
Bridalveil Falls was spectacular in the cool morning.  We let the horses stop and drink from Bridalveil Creek as we walked up to the very base of the falls, enjoying the spraying mist and swaying curtain of water above our heads.  It looks surreal, something built by special effects and human hands rather than a natural phenomenon.  It is sights such as these that make me appreciate the preservation of national parks such as Yosemite.

We spent the rest of the day admiring the sharp granite Spires, Cathedral Rock, and countless other formations as we sauntered back around the loop of the trail to the visitor's center.  The day was hot already and we were tired despite enjoying the convenience of horseback all day!  We read from the guidebook about the volcanic history of the granite formations and the unique desert-y landscape of the Valley.  Our beautiful visit was marked by plenty of sun and exercise and awe at the natural beauty of this national gem. We are now at the leisure of driving across the country in our family car, stopping at any which landmark along the way and camping as we go.  This is our next adventure on our world tour!

Thursday, February 23, 2012

Picturesque Alaska

Texts: Picturesque Alaska: A Journal of a Tour Among the Mountains, Seas, and Islands of the Northwest, from San Francisco to Sitka by Abby Johnson Woodman, c. 1889.

All About Alaska  Travel Pamphlet produced by the Pacific Steamship Company, c.1889

Travel Pamphlet Cover, 1889
From All About Alaska:
"What there is in Alaska to will see, admire, and pass through channels, straight as an arrow and of unfathomable depths, banked on either side by perpendicular and gigantic mountains, whose untrod summits are clothes in clouds and ice. But what will interest you most will be the Glaciers--glittering in the distance until you have an opporunity to climb on one.
"You will be amused at their totem poles--which are made by cutting down a good, straight tree, dressing it down to the desired size, then carving it in a very rude way, with figures of birds, Indian warriors, and other fantastic shapes...they are raised and planted on end before the owner's hut."
"Having arrived home: You will find your eyes clear and sparkling, your appetite keen, your step more elastic, your general health immensely improved.  You will have lots of stories to tell of your experiences, which will make you the lion of your social gathering and the envy of those who stayed home." 
The Muir Glacier, in Glacier Bay, woodcut drawing from Picturesque Alaska
The steamship enters Glacier Bay, and the entire world comes ablaze in light.  The late afternoon sun, still high in the sky in early summer, throws its beams on every surface, and they throw them right back.  The glittering deep blue of the sea, the mottled sky and clouds, and the pure, icy, crystal clear blue of dozens of glaciers, surrounding the bay on three sides, reaching the water and meeting the sky.  The entire world was awash in the sparkling blue light, and the entire passenger population came up on deck to bask in the beauty of it.  We docked at the port of Juneau, a small city on southeast Alaska.  Home to native people, Russian settlers, as well as Americans in the fishing and mining industry, the town is growing, and quite easily accommodates our passenger ship with seafood restaurants near the harbor, excursions into the forested mountains directly encasing the town, and glacier climbing trips.

Totem poles, woodcut drawing
from Picturesque Alaska
We sign up to trek on a glacier.  The leaders bring strong mules, connected by heavy rope. We slide primitive spikes to our shoes--the thing could very well be an early torture device, but it effectively gains traction on the uneven, icy surface of the glacier.  Climbing in a glacier becomes much easier than it appeared from that glittering world of blue that we approached from the Bay.  The ice slides directly down to a small visitor's shack--it must be temporary because the glacier moves anywhere from several inches to a few feet per year, and may overtake the visitor's center in any given winter, when climbing is closed.  The seven participants--four from the steamship, myself, and two cousins visiting a Russian aunt in the town--assemble in a line between the guides and mules and we begin our slow trek across the ice.  The ice is cut in grooves and it takes a lot of caution, but there is no fear of sliding right off the surface, as the spikes on our feet protect from danger.  There is plenty of rock and debris not visible from the ship that adds to our traction.  The visitor's center has taken great caution to rope off a short, safe section to climb on--if we were left to our own devices we'd surely find the nearest crevice to fall into.  For about one hour we stumble back and forth across the surface, enjoying the rising chill from the glacier's surface and the beating sun on our heads.  

photo courtesy of
The guides encourage us to purchase posters, etchings, jars of authentic "glacial silt," which is really just glorified dirt" in the visitor's shack.  I politely decline, preferring instead my own mental image of that glittery world, the cool smoothness of the trek, the up-close details of the glacier's surface carved and etched into the ice.  I do wish to purchase the ice spike I wear on my feet, but deny their practicality and move on, instead drawing a picture here of my best attempt.  We returned to town chilled and hungry, but with a new appreciation for those enormous frozen rivers that cover this landscape.

Around the World

Trinity College Raether Library holds in its basement level of seven miles of shelving that constitute the rare books collection of the Watkinson Library.  These works range from the 11th century to the present, and include not only manuscript but pamphlets, maps, art prints, college archives, and more.

Through a Fellowship Program funded by the Watkinson, I am embarking on a creative journey using the various works held there.  My project is founded in my love of travel and I quite literally plan on journeying "around the world."  My project has two parts:  this blog will house the written component of my journeys.  I'm writing a somewhat fictionalized/imagined travelogue, based on readings and quotes from works in the library.  These works include travel pamhplets and advertisements from the late 19th century, captains' logs from the 1500s, travel diaries from the 1920s, and more.  My journey will not be set at any one point in time, but I instead grant myself the freedom to land myself in any era that catches my fancy.

In addition to the online recording of my travels, I will also create a visual representation of the journey.  My map will include a variety of materials and photos from each destination, and will have a direct link to the online travelogue.  This map will be on display in the Watkinson upon completion.

So, I'm off on my journey!  Happy travels and make sure to check back here as I go.